Just go with it, figuring on the usual reason of exhausting some factory parts stock in what is called a 'running change'. In 1984, the serial numbers jump to 700010, and I can't believe Deere made a couple hundred thousand 450D's in 1982! The serial number list says that the JD450D started in 1982 just past the serial number shown for the start of the JD450C 1983 production. The power went up all of 3 HP, so I really don't know why there was an overlap this time. The JD450B units changed over to the wet steering clutches used in the JD450C when the stock of dry-type steering clutch parts was depleted.Īgain, we have an overlap between the JD450C and the JD450D. The JD450B units were produced along with the JD450C until the demand for the non-turbo engine dropped off. However, there are some late JD450B's out there with wet steering clutches. Also, the JD450C changed from dry to wet steering clutches. The main differences between the JD450B and JD450C are that the C went to a 4/219 CID Turbocharged engine from the 4/219 CID normally aspirated engine in the JD450B. We do not know the exact serial number of the last JD450B as a result. There is an overlap in 1975 thru 1976 where JD450B and 450C models were made concurrently. This could get interesting.Here are the serial numbers, by year, for the JD450 through JD450G models. Where about will that plug be located? Do you have to take off the track and sprocket to get at the clutch pack? We will be bring the Dozer over to my place tomorrow. We are going to try and drive it up on a couple of 8" X 8" timbers. If this does not do it then removing the clutch packs and brake bands for service is going to be necessary but this is not as hard to do as it sounds nor is it all that expensive, basic hand tools and a service manual and you should have no problem doing it.I assume that you have to have the machine jacked up to do this, sure doesn't have much ground clearance as it is. If you are still going to junk it I too live only about 10 miles from I 75 and I am only about halfway as far up the road as AllenR!Īn old trick we used to do for this was to first remove that plug and make sure there was no water then replace the plug and pour about 2 or 3 gallons of Kerosene into the clutch.brake pack housing and let it sit for a day or so, after about 48 hours you can then start trying to work this thing loose by operating the machine and trying to get that side to free up. You are right about that old machine DO NOT junk it!!! There are folks around here who would REALLY like to get their hands on that thing including me!īTW I have the smaller 350 version of that Dozer. If this does not do it then removing the clutch packs and brake bands for service is going to be necessary but this is not as hard to do as it sounds nor is it all that expensive, basic hand tools and a service manual and you should have no problem doing it. An old trick we used to do for this was to first remove that plug and make sure there was no water then replace the plug and pour about 2 or 3 gallons of Kerosene into the clutch.brake pack housing and let it sit for a day or so, after about 48 hours you can then start trying to work this thing loose by operating the machine and trying to get that side to free up. If you get down underneath the finial drive housing you will find a plug that will drain the water (there will in all likelihood be water accumulated in there but if not it will be much better) out of the case if any has gotten in there. Since that is a B model it has the dry clutch packs for the steering and those things are notorious for sticking if left to sit for a while, I am really surprised that both sides were not stuck.
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